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Haskell jewlery full#

In the early 1950s the tag was changed to a horseshoe shape, then a flat oval shape with MIRIAM HASKELL stamped on it.

It was only in the 1940s that a permanent Miriam Haskell signature was added to protect the brand from cheaper competitors. She is known for interesting designs, superior quality plastics and beadwork however prior to 1947/8 there was no signature on her pieces. Hi Laurie, as you know, Miriam Haskell designed costume jewelry in the 1920s. This is the time when Haskell began signing its jewelry and although not impossible, unsigned pieces with filigree backs are extremely rare. These filigree backs were then coated in a variety of finishes (the most popular being Russian Gold, a secret formula that actually contained genuine 24 carat gold). After the war, when metal was abundant again, Haskell replaced the pierced plates with much more sophisticated filigree metal backs, which were weighty and extremely well-made.These backs were uncovered and are a key identifier for mid-1940's Miriam Haskell pieces. During World War II, a shortage of metal meant a substitute had to be found and the metal back was replaced with a pierced plastic back with regularly placed holes.By the 1930''s the back was being covered by a flat metal plate.Metal plates were pierced with small round holes at regular intervals (NOT mesh) and beads and pearls were then wired by hand directly on to this base. Backs that are left uncovered indicate very early Haskell pieces.These back plates help us identify Miriam Haskell jewelry. Miriam Haskell used a solid back plate onto which the decorative elements were attached. Modern necklaces have toggle clasps and lobster clasps, in addition to box clasps and hooks.This clasp was discontinued in the 1980's. Known as the slide clasp, it featured a flat oblong shape with the patent number 3,427,691 on one side and the Haskell signature in block capitals on the other. In the late 70''s the decoration was dropped from the hook on less expensive necklaces, though it was still signed.The hooks were signed ''MIRIAM HASKELL'' and were usually decorated, either with an eight-petal ''flower'' with pearls/beads as petals, or, more rarely, a dove or a turtle attached to the top of the hook.

The hook and tail design consisted of a distinctive hook on one end and an extender on the other consisting of several pearls or beads. This allowed the necklace length to be varied.

After the war, and during the signed period, Haskell introduced the hook and tail design.

The distinguishing feature of this clasp is that it did not have the protruding prong (the ''thumb'' part).

The other main clasp used was a very simple spring ring clasp.

These were quite elaborate and decorated with beads, pearls, or rhinestones, and either oblong or round, if the piece had multiple strands.

Early unsigned necklaces tend to have box clasps.

Lucille Ball even wore some pieces on her major television show, I Love Lucy! Joan Crawford is rumored to have owned almost all of the pieces Miriam ever made! Stars such as Joan Crawford, Lucille Ball and the Duchess of Windsor were often seen wearing Miriam Haskell jewels. With this exposure, they gained a large celebrity clientele. They continued to spread to Miami and London. Miriam’s popularity continued to grow, with an expansion to 392 Fifth Ave, a location in Saks Fifth Avenue and Burdines Department Store. Together, they put out affordable costume jewelry from the 1920s to 1960s, when a new creative director joined the company. While Miriam may have designed some of the earlier pieces, many feel it was Hess who was the true creative genius behind their jewelry. Hess was previously a window dresser from Macy’s, but Miriam saw his greater talent: jewelry design. It is said that Miriam was the business brain behind her company, adding a creative partner shortly after that first shop opened, Frank Hess. Within the year, Miriam opened her second store on West 57th Street. This first store was located in the old McAlpin Hotel on Sixteenth Street. It is said she had $500 to her name when she moved, which proved to be enough to open a gift and jewelry boutique in 1926.

Haskell jewlery full#

Full of creativity and a business drive, Miriam moved to New York City in 1924, after completing three years at the University of Chicago. Miriam Haskell was born in Indiana on July 1, 1899.